Method of making slip-lasted shoes having metatarsal pads



Sept. 25, 1951 c. LoNGlNl METHOD OF` MAKING SLIP-LASTED SHOES HAVING METATARSAL PADS 2 Sheets-Sheet l Filed DeC. 3, 1949 Sept. 25, 1951 Filed Deo. s, 1949 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 MMM@ INVENTOR.

Mv' M Wald/FYI Patented Sept. 25, 1951 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKING SLIP-LASTED SHOES HAVING METATARSAL PADS Charles Longini, Cincinnati, Ohio Application December 3, 1949, Serial No. 130,917

2 Claims. l

This invention is directed to shoes of the type having built-in cushions or pads adapted to provide corrective support to weakened or infirm portions of the foot and is particularly directed to shoes of this type manufactured by the slip lasting process.

Certain types of corrective shoes employ resilient pads or cushions which are strategically located to distribute the moving load of the wearers weight and to support the arch or ball of the wearers foot. It is highly desirable to anchor these supporting pads or so-called buttons by building them directly into the shoe and thus prevent them from shifting from proper supporting relationship or becoming detached and lost. Moreover, it is preferred to conceal the pads directly beneath the sock lining s that they bulge the lining inwardly in proper supporting relationship to the foot. However, it is very difcult to build shoes of this typeon standard lasts, sincev the presence of the buttons presents difcult alignment and assembly problems, and often requires special manufacturing techniques involving expensive processing steps. The problems are particularly acute in the .case of sliplasted shoes, where the upper and sock lining are firmly attached together prior to Ythe lasting operation and the outsole, heel and platform assembly is fastened directly to the sock lining during lasting. It has heretofore been prohibitively awkward and expensive toA manufacture correctly shaped slip lasted shoes including built-in buttons concealed by the sock lining because there is no room between the sock lining and platform to accommodate the buttons.

The primary objective of this invention is to provide a method for making shoes containing built-in corrective pads, such as metatarsal and arch buttons, in which provision is made for the accommodation and location of the pads without necessitating the alteration of standard shoe parts or their relative relationship to each other. In accordance with this invention, accommodation for the pads is built directly into the shoe either prior to, or during the lasting process without interferring with the normal assembly, shaping and lasting operations. In fact, the pads themselves are not added until after the shoe is otherwise completed and consequently their presence does not complicate the building operation. After the shoe has been removed from the last, the buttons are inserted and fastened in place without necessitating interference with the stitches or cement holding previously assembled shoe parts together. Thus, correctly shaped and proportioned shoes manufactured on standard lasts by the slip lasting process can be provided with built-in corrective. buttons.

More specifically, the process of this invention 5 contemplates the provision of an envelope formed between the sock lining or insole and a specially provided flap which I choose to call the shank lining. Prior to the lasting operation, the shank lining and sock lining are overlaid by the assembler so that the shank lining overlies the sock lining in face to face relationship. A partially sealed envelope is then formed preferably by stitching common edges of the sock lining and shank lining together. However, one edge of the shank lining is left free thereby forming an envelope mouth adapted to subsequently receive the metatarsal and arch supporting buttons. In the slip lasting process the seam between the shank lining and sock lining may be formed at the same time that the upper is joined to the sock lining, and it will then be integrated into the seam between the upper and sock lining. This assembly is then slip-lasted and the outsole, heel and, if desired, a platform are attached. During the lasting operation, the envelope is empty and the thin shank lining resides atly against the -sock lining and the upper conforming snugly to the last. Consequently, it does not interfere with the proper shaping or assembly of the shoe.

After the shoe is removed from the last, the mouth of the envelope is opened by turning back. the free edge of the flap and the metatarsal and arch supporting buttons are slipped into proper location Within the envelope. These buttons may sock lining and the upper or the underside of the shank lining. The shank lining flap is then returned to proper position over the sock lining, and the upper and the mouth of the envelope sealed by securely fastening the free edge of the shank lining to the sock lining.

Other advantages and objections of this invention will be apparent from the following description of the drawings in which:

Figure l is a perspective View of an upper, shank lining, sock lining, and platform wrapper adapted to be used in the process of this invention.

Figure 2 is a side view of the pre-lasting as- 50, sembly of the parts shown in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is across sectional view taken along line 3-3 of Figure 2.

Figure 4 is a side View. of a lasted shoe constructed in accordance with this invention. 55 Figure 5 isa top view .of the shoe `after lasting then be rmly fastened into position to .either the,

in which part of the forepart of the upper is broken away to show the manner in which the shank lining is turned back.

Figure 6 is a fragmentary view similar to Figure 5 showing the metatarsal and longitudinal arch cushions fastened to the underside of the shank lining.

Figure 7 is a plan view similar to Figure 5 but showing the shank lining returned and sealed in finished position.

This invention will be described with particular reference to a slip-lasting process. However, those skilled in the art will readily appreciate that the underlying principles of construction can be utilized with equal facility in a force-lasting process. A typical method of constructing shoes in accordance with this invention is begun by preparing and assembling the parts shown in Figure 1. These parts include an upper I which in the embodiment shown is adapted to form an open heal-open toe ladys shoe, a comparatively thin shank lining or flap II which is in part shaped to conform to the heel and shank portion of a sock lining I2 and a platform wrapper comprised of two parts I3 and I4 which are shown inverted in accordance with standard preliminary assembly technique. If a platform is not to be used, the platform wrapper may be omitted from this assembly.

Prior to the lasting operation, the aforementioned parts are assembled by placing the upper inside the upstanding portions of the platform wrapper so that the marginal lower edges I5 of the upper coincide with the lower edges I6 of the Wrapper portions. The shank lining II is placed in overlapping face to face relationship with the sock lining in such a manner that the heel I1 and side edges I8 of the shank lining coincide with and are matched to the heel and side edges of the sock lining. The heel and side edges of the shank lining and the entire peripheral edge of the sock lining are turned over in the manner shown in Figure 3 and the matched portions placed inside the upper so that they lie alongside and coincide with the marginal edges of the upper and the platform Wrapper.

It will be observed from an inspection of Figures 1 and 7 that the shank lining is notched as at to receive the edge 2| of the heel strap of the upper. Forward of the heel strap notch is a gently curved lip 22 which is adapted to eX- tend beyond the inner shank of the sock lining and overly the inner shank portion 23 of the upper thereby concealing the longitudinal arch button. This lip curves forward gently, returning substantially to the contour of the forward portion of the sock lining. In the embodiment shown, the shank lining does not have the same length as the sock lining, but is only sufficiently long so that when the respective heel portions of the sock lining and shank lining are placed together, the forward portion of the shank lining extends to approximately the center of the ball supporting portion of the sock lining. Thus, the shank lining need be only of sufficient length to cover and conceal the metatarsal button and provides a forward marginal sealing edge 24. The shank lining and sock lining are placed within the upper and platform wrapper and the side lip of the shank lining is turned up so thatit resides against the inner side surface of the upper. The forward edge of the shank lining does not reach the forward edge of the sock lining and therefore lies atly on the sock lining and without being turned under. Consequently, as shown in Figures 4 of the shank lining are turned over into ush relationship with the edges of the sock lining, platform wrapper and upper while the lip 22 of the shank lining is turned up against the upper and the forward edge of the shank lining is positioned directly on the sock lining. This assembly is then joined for the lasting operation by stitching the respectively adjacent parts to the periph- ,ery of the sock lining. The dotted lines 25 in Figure 1 indicate the stitch lines on the various parts. It will therefore be apparent that the shank lining, sock lining and platform wrapper are joined together at the heel. The upper, sock lining and platform wrapper are joined together at all points except at the heel, while the sock lining, upper, platform wrapper and shank lining are joined together along the outer side edge of the assembly.

By virtue of this construction, the flap or shank lining is firmly attached to the shoe and forms, in conjunction with the sock lining and the upper, an unsealed envelope which is adapted to later receive the metatarsal and longitudinal arch supporting buttons. Before placing the buttons in position and sealing the envelope, however, the shoe is lasted and as shown in Figure 4 the platform (not shown) and wedge-type heel (not shown) are attached to the sock lining. If desired, the seam may be recessed in a groove provided in the platform. The platform wrapper is then turned down from the seam and secured in position over the wedge-type heel and the platform in a conventional manner. The outsole and outer heel are also attached in place in accordance with Well known techniques.

After the shoe is removed from the last, the envelope is opened by turning back the forward lip and the flap of th arch lining (see Figure 5). Appropriately shaped metatarsal 2B and longitudinal arch pads 21 formed from soft rubber or other suitable resilient material are then fastened in position on the underside of the flap as shown in Figure 6 or alternatively on the sock lining. Any convenient means can be used for securing in position but it has been discovered that adhesive is entirely satisfactory. The shank lining flap is then returned to its normal position shown in Figure 7 where it is secured in place against the sock lining and the upper by means of adhesive. Thus, the envelope is sealed and the pads securely fastened in position.

If, as preferred, the envelope is sealed by adhesive, it will be apparent that it can be easily unsealed to permit adjustment or replacement of the pads without destroying the shoe or necessitating rebuilding. Whenever adjustment or replacement of the pads is desired, it is only necessary to force the adhesive and turn the flap back whereupon the pads are exposed. The envelope may then be resealed with the pads in correct adjustment or with the replacement pads as the case may be.

The button envelope formed by the previously described process is firmly although impermanently secured in and is integral with the shoe structure. Particularly, attention is directed to the stitched seam between the sock lining and the shank lining at the heel of the shoe. Here the shank lining and sock lining are not only joined together but are rmly anchored to other heel parts. Hence, the shank lining is positively prevented from curling upward and away from the heel portion'of the sock lining. Moreover, the shank lining is positively held against displacement under the repeated forward frictional 2 and 3, the heel and outer side edges I1 and I8 f5. forces exerted thereon by the foot.

While this invention has been disclosed in relation to a flap or shank lining which cooperates with the sock lining and inner shank portion of the upper to form an envelope which will accommodate both metatarsal and longitudinal arch supporting buttons, those skilled in the art will readily appreciate that the invention embraces the concept of providing a flap or shank lining which will form an envelope designed to accommodate only a metatarsal button or a longitudinal arch supporting button or some other type of button well known to those skilled in the art. For example, if it is only desired to build a longitudinal arch support button in the shoe, the iiap need not extend beyond the shank of the upper but may terminate just forward of the button. Conversely, if it is only desired to include a metatarsal button in the shoe the sock lining need not be dimensioned so that it extends to the ball of the foot.

Having described my invention, I claim:

l. In a process for making slip-lasted shoes the steps of; assembling an upper, a sock lining and a flap adapted to overlie the sock lining in face to face relationship therewith, fastening said flap to said sock lining around the heel portions thereof to form an unsealed button-receiving envelope therewith and fastening said upper to said sock lining, slip-lasting the assembly thus formed whereby said flap conforms snugly to the last without substantially displacing said sock lining therefrom, fastening a heel and outsole to said lasted assembly, removing the shoe from the last, inserting at least one corrective button in said envelope and sealing said envelope.

2. The process of making a corrective shoe by the slip lasted method, which process includes the steps of assembling an upper, a sock lining and a flap member adapted to be positioned on the surface of thel sock lining in the completed shoe, said flap member being formed of thin sheet material and corresponding generally in contour to the heel and shank portions of the sock lining but having a portion extending laterally beyond the sock lining on the inner shank area thereof, securing together the edges of the upper, sock lining and iiap with the sock lining and ilap being secured only along the heel and the outer edge of the shank, said ap thereby defining an unsealed envelope, slip lasting the assembly, attaching a heel and outsole to the assembly while it is on the last, removing the assembly from the last, positioning and securing within the confines of the envelope a metatarsal pad and a longtiudinal arch pad and finally sealing the envelope by securing the body of the flap to the sock lining and the laterally extending portion to the inner side surface of the upper.

CHARLES LONGINI.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the nie of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,417,600 Gutmann May 30, 1922 1,524,489 Richards Jan. 27, 1925 1,735,827 Johnson Nov. 26, 1929 1,895,327 Horning Jan. 24, 1933 2,457,082 Fennessy Dec. 21, 1948 

